All the dressmaking techniques you need, explained simply for easy, professional-looking results.
This definitive how-to book features scores of step-by-step sequences showing every kind of technique, from using and adapting paper patterns, to specialist couture-inspired seaming techniques that will take your garment-making skills to a new level.
Dip in and out, or work through the book in order:
- Step 1: KIT - discover the essential equipment you need, with in-depth advice on choosing threads, needles and haberdashery;
- Step 2: PREP - choose the right fabric for every project; understand dressmaking patterns; learn how to accurately measure; and learn how to adapt every pattern to suit your shape;
- Step 3: MAKE - easy-to-follow instructions for every key technique, from seams and pockets to yokes and waistbands;
- Step 4: STRETCH - understand knit fabric: how to stabilize it, how to work with it, and how to finish your hems and seams;
- Step 5: FINISH - it's all in the detail, so discover how to give every garment a professional finish with accurate facings, hems and linings.
A beautifully presented technique-resource that includes tools, techniques and troubleshooting, this is a guide for dressmakers new to the craft and for those who want to take their skills further.
Author Jules Fallon runs a hugely popular and over-subscribed series of dressmaking classes, which means she knows exactly the techniques that everyone gets stuck on. She brings her neat tricks and sage advice to all aspects of the book, and especially to the 'Help!' features: troubleshooting fixes for the real-world mistakes that are part of our dressmaking experience.
Previously published as Complete Guide to Dressmaking (9781782215721).
Table of Contents
Meet Jules Fallon p.8
Chapter 1: Kit p. 10
Essential equipment p. 12
Needle know-how p. 15
Cutting it p. 18
Machine anatomy p.20
Sewing machine feet p. 22
Choosing your thread p. 24
Dressmaking haberdashery p. 26
Chapter 2 : Prep p. 28
Understanding fabrics p. 30
Woven p. 31
Silks p. 32
Wools and wool mixes p. 33
Knitted p. 34
Bonded p. 34
Special-occasion p. 35
Choosing fabrics p. 36
Interfacing p. 38
Fabric preparation p. 39
Pattern envelope information
Understanding pattern symbols p. 44
Measuring p. 46
Size charts and measurements p. 48
Making a fitted toile p. 50
Laying out the paper pattern p. 54
What pattern pieces do you need?
How to follow a layplan p. 55
Working with patterned fabrics p. 57
Pinning and cutting fabric p. 60
Marking fabric p. 62
Adapting a pattern p. 64
Pressing matters p. 70
Creating shape p. 72
Darts p. 72
Gathering p. 76
Pleats and tucks p. 79
Shirring p. 86
Seams p. 88
Finishing seams p. 94
Pockets p. 98
In-seam pocket p. 98
Patch pocket p. 100
Welt pocket p. 102
Jetted pocket p. 105
Western-style pocket p. 108
Cargo pocket p. 110
Openings and closures p. 114
Placket opening p. 114
Continuous-bound opening p. 116
Centre-back vent p. 118
Buttons and buttonholes p. 120
Hooks and eyes p. 126
Press studs p. 127
Zips p. 128
Centred zip p. 128
Fly zip p. 130
Lapped zip p. 133
Concealed zip p. 136
Concealed zip with a facing p. 138
Lapped zip with a facing p. 140
Exposed zip with a facing p. 143
Sleeves p. 146
Set-in sleeve p. 148
Two-piece sleeve p. 150
Raglan sleeve p. 152
Shirt sleeve p. 154
Cuffs p. 156
Shirt cuff p. 156
French cuff p. 158
Collars p. 159
Shirt collar p. 160
Peter Pan collar p. 166
Convertible collar p. 168
Shawl collar p. 172
Yokes p. 176
Double yoke p. 176
Waistbands
Straight waistband p. 179
Curved waistband p. 182
Belt loops p. 184
Elastic casing p. 185
Decorative features p. 188
Bias strips p. 188
Piping p. 191
Rouleau cord p. 194
Inserting lace p. 197
Frills and flounces p. 198
Topstitching p. 200
Chapter 4: Stretch p. 202
Stretch fabric characteristics p. 204
Why knit is different to woven fabric p. 204
Different types of knit fabric p. 206
Elastic and stabilisers p. 209
Working with stretch fabric p. 212
You don’t need an overlocker p. 212
Edge finishes for necklines and armholes p. 213
Hemming and using a twin needle p. 217
Chapter 5: Finish p. 220
Bound edges p. 222
Positioning the bias strip p. 222
Attaching the bias strip p. 223
Finishing the bias strip p. 224
Facings p. 226
Neck facing p. 226
Waist facing p. 228
All-in-one facing p. 230
Understitching and edge stitching
Understitching p. 232
Edge stitching p. 233
Hems p. 234
Hand sewing p. 235
Machine sewing p. 238
Linings p. 242
Skirt lining p. 243
Bodice or dress lining p. 246
Resources p. 248
Glossary p. 250
Index p. 252
Credits p. 256
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About Jules Fallon
Jules Fallon is an established indie pattern designer and owner of the brand Sew Me Something, she is also an experienced author and teacher. Jules is a regular on the sewing, quilting and craft show circuit in the UK and hosts regular workshops and retreats on dressmaking and sewing. Visit her website: sewmesomething.co.uk
