Table of Contents
Meet Jules Fallon 8
CHAPTER 1: KIT 10
Essential equipment 12
Needle know-how 15
Cutting it 18
Machine anatomy 20
Sewing machine feet 22
Choosing your thread 24
Dressmaking haberdashery 26
CHAPTER 2: PREP 28
Understanding fabrics 30 - Woven p. 31, Silks p. 32, Wools and wool mixes p. 33, Knitted p. 34, Bonded p. 34, Special-occasion 35Choosing fabrics 36
Interfacing 38
Fabric preparation 39
Pattern envelope information 40
Understanding pattern symbols 44
Measuring 46
Size charts and measurements 48
Making a fitted toile 50
Laying out the paper pattern 54 - What pattern pieces do you need? 54, How to follow a layplan 55, Working with patterned fabrics 57
Pinning and cutting fabric 60 - Marking fabric 62
Adapting a pattern 64
CHAPTER 3: MAKE 68
Pressing matters 70
Creating shape 72 - Darts 72, Gathering 76, Pleats and tucks 79, Shirring 86
Seams 88 - Finishing seams 94
Pockets 98 - In-seam pocket 98, Patch pocket 100, Welt pocket 102, Jetted pocket 105, Western-style pocket 108, Cargo pocket 110
Openings and closures 114 - Placket opening 114, Continuous-bound opening 116, Centre-back vent 118, Buttons and buttonholes 120, Hooks and eyes 126, Press studs 127
Zips 128 - Centred zip 128, Fly zip 130, Lapped zip 133, Concealed zip 136, Concealed zip with a facing 138, Lapped zip with a facing 140, Exposed zip with a facing 143
Sleeves 146 - Set-in sleeve 148, Two-piece sleeve 150, Raglan sleeve 152, Shirt sleeve 154
Cuffs 156 - Shirt cuff 156, French cuff 158
Collars 159 - Shirt collar 160, Peter Pan collar 166, Convertible collar 168, Shawl collar 172
Yokes 176 - Double yoke 176
Waistbands 178 - Straight waistband 179, Curved waistband 182, Belt loops 184, Elastic casing 185
Decorative features 188 - Bias strips 188, Piping 191, Rouleau cord 194, Inserting lace 197, Frills and flounces 198, Topstitching 200
CHAPTER 4: STRETCH 202
Stretch fabric characteristics 204 - Why knit is different to woven fabric 204, Different types of knit fabric 206, Elastic and stabilisers 209
Working with stretch fabric 212 - You don’t need an overlocker 212, Edge finishes for necklines and armholes 213, Hemming and using a twin needle 217
CHAPTER 5: FINISH 220
Bound edges 222 - Positioning the bias strip 222, Attaching the bias strip 223, Finishing the bias strip 224
Facings 226 - Neck facing 226, Waist facing 228, All-in-one facing 230
Understitching and edge stitching 232 - Understitching 232, Edge stitching 233
Hems 234 - Hand sewing 235, Machine sewing 238
Linings 242 - Skirt lining 243, Bodice or dress lining 246
Resources 248
Glossary 250
Index 252
Credits 256
